If you’ve already read our Buying Guide, you know which delete pipe fits your truck. Now it’s time to get it on the truck.

I’ve installed over 200 DPF delete pipes across Ram, Ford, and GM platforms. The process is straightforward if you know what you’re doing — and expensive if you don’t. This guide walks you through every step, covers the platform-specific gotchas, and keeps you from making the mistakes I’ve seen cost guys hundreds in broken sensors and stripped bolts.

⚠️ IMPORTANT DISCLAIMER: DPF/CAT delete pipes are for OFF-ROAD and COMPETITION USE ONLY. Removing emissions equipment from on-road vehicles violates federal and state regulations. This guide assumes your truck is a dedicated off-road vehicle.

Before You Start: What You’ll Need

Tools

• 3/8" and 1/2" socket set (metric: 10mm–19mm, SAE: 3/8"–3/4")
• Breaker bar (24") — trust me
• Torque wrench (50–250 ft-lbs range)
• Penetrating oil (PB Blaster or Kroil — WD-40 is a lubricant, not a penetrant)
• O2 sensor socket (7/8" or 22mm)
• Pry bar (medium, 18-24")
• Floor jack + 4 jack stands (or a lift if you’re lucky)
• Anti-seize compound (copper-based, high-temp)
• Safety glasses + mechanic gloves
• Flashlight or work light

Parts

• DPF/CAT delete pipe (obviously)
• New exhaust gaskets (do NOT reuse old ones — $15 now saves a boost leak later)
• New V-band clamp (if your kit doesn’t include one)
• New exhaust manifold/turbo bolts (optional but recommended for higher-mileage trucks)

Pre-Install Prep

1. Have your tuner ready. Your truck will throw codes and/or enter limp mode immediately after DPF removal without a tune. Flash the delete tune BEFORE you turn the key after install.
2. Soak everything the night before. Hit every exhaust bolt, V-band nut, and sensor bung with penetrating oil 12–24 hours before install. The difference between “came right off” and “drilled it out” is usually one night of PB Blaster.
3. Disconnect both batteries. You’ll be near hot leads near the starter area on all three platforms. 15 seconds now beats a fire extinguisher later.

Step-by-Step: General Installation

Step 1: Lift and Secure the Vehicle

You need clearance to work under the truck. Ram and Ford trucks sit high enough that ramps or tall jack stands work. GM IFS trucks sit lower — use stands on the frame, not the control arms.

Minimum clearance: 24" from frame rail to floor. If you can’t get that, stop here and find a lift.

Step 2: Remove Factory Sensors

All three platforms have temperature sensors (EGT probes) and pressure differential sensors in the DPF assembly. Locate and disconnect:

• Upstream EGT sensor — typically pre-DPF, post-turbo
• Downstream EGT sensor — post-DPF
• DPF pressure sensor lines — two small rubber hoses connected to the DPF body

Critical: Do NOT cut sensor wires. You’ll need the connectors for block-off plugs, and OEM sensors cost $80–200 each. Unplug at the harness connector. Label them with tape — “upstream”, “downstream”, “pressure” — so you know which is which if you ever need to revert.

Use an O2 sensor socket for any threaded sensors you need to remove from the DPF body.

Step 3: Drop the Factory DPF/CAT Assembly

The DPF assembly is heavy — 80–110 lbs depending on platform. Have a second person or a transmission jack ready.

Work front to back:

1. Loosen the V-band clamp at the turbo/downpipe connection
2. Remove the mid-pipe support bracket bolts (usually 13mm or 15mm)
3. Loosen the rear connection (slip joint or flange) at the cat-back section
4. Slide the whole assembly rearward and lower it

If the V-band clamp won’t budge: Heat is your friend. A MAP gas torch on the clamp for 30–45 seconds expands the metal enough to break the rust bond. Don’t go red hot — you’re near the turbo.

Step 4: Clean Mounting Surfaces

Wire brush both mating surfaces: the turbo outlet flange and the cat-back inlet flange. Any carbon buildup or rust will prevent a proper seal. A flat file across the flange surface helps identify high spots.

Step 5: Install the Delete Pipe

1. Dry fit first. Slide the delete pipe into position without tightening anything. Check:

   • All mounting points align
   • No interference with transmission crossmember, frame rails, or wiring harnesses
   • Pipe has clearance for thermal expansion (1/4" minimum at closest point)

2. New gasket. Place the new gasket at the turbo connection. Copper-based anti-seize on the bolts (not the gasket face).

3. Work back to front when tightening:

   • Hand-tighten rear connection first
   • Then mid-pipe bracket
   • Then turbo V-band last

4. Torque sequence: Turbo V-band → mid bracket → rear connection. Final torque on V-bands: ~15–18 ft-lbs (snug plus 1/4 turn — over-tightening splits V-band clamps).

Step 6: Sensor Delete / Block-off

Your tuner should handle sensor deactivation via the ECM. Install block-off plugs on any open bungs. Route and secure sensor harnesses away from the exhaust — zip-tie to the frame, not the body, to avoid chafing.

Step 7: Flash Your Tune

Load the delete tune onto your ECM before starting the truck. Most tuners (EFI Live, EZ Lynk, HP Tuners) take 5–10 minutes. Do NOT start the engine until the tune is fully written.

Step 8: First Start & Leak Check

Start the engine and let it idle for 30 seconds. Check every connection point for exhaust leaks:

• Feel method: Run your hand (gloved) along each joint — you’ll feel pulses before you hear them
• Soapy water: Spray connections, look for bubbles
• Sound: A “ticking” at idle that speeds up with RPM = exhaust leak

Retorque hot after 50 miles.

Platform-Specific Notes

2019–2024 Ram 6.7L Cummins

What makes it easy: The Ram is the most accessible platform. The DPF sits in the downpipe area with decent clearance. Most installs take 2–3 hours with hand tools.

Gotchas:

• The EGT sensor on the turbo elbow has a habit of seizing. If it fights you, leave it in place and disconnect at the harness — your tuner can disable it in software.
• 2019+ trucks have a tighter transmission tunnel. The delete pipe routing needs to be precise. If your mid-pipe bracket doesn’t line up perfectly, loosen all connections and shift the assembly as a unit before tightening any single point.
• The factory cat-back uses a slip-fit connection. A dab of high-temp RTV on the slip joint eliminates the “chirp” some trucks develop at 1,500–1,800 RPM after install.

Product: Cavusheo 4" DPF & CAT Delete Pipe for 2019-2024 Ram 6.7L Cummins — $219.99

2011–2023 Ford 6.7L Powerstroke

What makes it tricky: Ford packed the engine bay tight. The passenger-side upper EGT sensor sits behind the turbo heat shield and demands patience — or a 22mm crowsfoot wrench.

Gotchas:

• 2011–2016 trucks: The V-band clamp at the turbo outlet is notorious for rust-welding. If penetrating oil + heat doesn’t break it, cut it. A new clamp is $25. A cracked turbo housing is $1,200.
• 2017–2023 trucks: The DEF injector bung on the factory mid-pipe sits right where your delete pipe bracket needs to mount. Make sure the bracket clears it — some aftermarket pipes need a 1/4" spacer here.
• Ford’s ECM is more aggressive with limp mode triggers. If your tuner hasn’t properly disabled the “DPF Pressure Sensor Rationality” parameter, you’ll get a P2459 code within 3 drive cycles. Use a tuner that specifically addresses this ($50 more upfront, zero headaches).

Product: Cavusheo 4" DPF & CAT Delete Pipe for 2011-2023 Ford 6.7L Powerstroke — $199.99

2017–2025 Chevy/GMC Duramax L5P

What makes it different: The L5P’s DPF assembly is modular — CAT and DPF are separate units, not a single canister. You’re removing two pieces instead of one, but the total weight is actually lower (~65 lbs combined).

Gotchas:

• The NOx sensor at the turbo outlet has a delicate ceramic element. Remove it BEFORE touching any bolts — a mild impact that wouldn’t dent steel can shatter a $280 NOx sensor.
• L5P trucks have a transmission crossmember that sits further forward than Ram or Ford. Your delete pipe may need heat shield trimming. Cavusheo pipes are designed to clear, but aftermarket skid plates or dual-transfer-case setups can interfere.
• 2024–2025 trucks use Bosch’s newer MD1 ECU. Not all tuners support it yet. Confirm compatibility before ordering your tune — EFI Live Autocal V3 and EZ Lynk 3.0 cover the MD1, earlier versions do not.

Product: Cavusheo 4" DPF & CAT Delete Pipe for 2017-2025 Chevy GMC Duramax L5P — $249.99

Common Mistakes That Cost Money

#1: Reusing Old Gaskets

I see this constantly. A $12 gasket fails, creates a boost leak, and the ECM compensates with extra fuel. Now you’re washing cylinders and wondering why your oil smells like diesel. Replace every gasket on every install.

#2: Wrong Torque on V-Band Clamps

Undertorqued = leak. Overtorqued = cracked clamp (or worse, warped turbo flange). V-bands are 15–18 ft-lbs max. If you don’t own a torque wrench that reads that low, buy one. Then check it again after 50 miles.

#3: Forgetting the Tune (or Flashing the Wrong One)

The truck won’t run without a delete tune. Period. I’ve gotten four calls this year from guys who “just wanted to hear it fire up real quick.” The ECM immediately sees missing DPF parameters and locks you into limp mode. Flash the tune first, start second. No exceptions.

#4: Not Checking Clearance After Install

An exhaust pipe that rubs against the transmission crossmember will wear through in ~3,000 miles. By then you’ve got a hole in your exhaust and a carbon monoxide risk in the cab. Check every contact point. 1/4" minimum gap everywhere.

#5: Ignoring the DEF System

Just because you removed the DPF doesn’t mean the DEF tank is now harmless. If your tuner doesn’t fully disable the DEF dosing system, it’ll eventually clog the SCR catalyst or throw persistent codes. Confirm with your tuner that DEF is fully disabled — not just “DPF off.”

Post-Install Checklist

Run through this after every install:

•  All bolts torqued to spec (re-check after 50 miles)
•  No exhaust leaks at idle or under throttle (have someone rev to 2,500 RPM while you listen)
•  Sensor harnesses secured away from exhaust (at least 6" clearance)
•  No contact between pipe and frame/transmission/body at any point
•  Tune flashed successfully — ECM shows no DPF-related DTCs
•  Test drive: normal acceleration, no surging, EGT reads normally on gauge
•  Retorque after 50 miles (hot engine, room-temperature fasteners — yes, let it cool first)

The Bottom Line

A DPF delete done right transforms the truck. Better throttle response, lower EGTs under load, and fuel economy gains of 2–4 MPG in real-world driving. Done wrong, it’s a tow truck bill and a weekend you won’t get back.

Take your time. Soak the bolts. Flash the tune before the key. Replace the gaskets.

You’re already ahead of 80% of the guys who attempt this — because you actually read the instructions.

Looking for your delete pipe? Browse our full lineup:
→ DPF Delete Pipes Collection

Questions about your install? Contact Cavusheo — we answer technical questions from actual diesel guys, not a chatbot.